One of the reasons for going on a trip is to learn new things, to do new things. Pick up a skill, because it’s fun, but you also learn about yourself. How you react to new situations, who you are, and it encourages the feeling side of the brain (rather than the thinking).


Surfing is a curious thing. More lifestyle than sport - but it’s hard to pin down why. I asked some local surfers this question and they weren’t sure themselves. Lots of sports pit you against the elements, so it’s not that. Is it a moving meditation? You can easily get lost in it, some people come here for a week and end up staying for months. An obsession perhaps? Certainly a laid back one.


But maybe I am just thinking about it too much - when I should just be engaging the feeling side of my brain…

Hey - I surfed, it was great. It felt great.